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The Benz is fairly easy to maintain by the mechanically
inclined. And this is a good thing, for if you walk into your friendly
MB service department you will be raped.
E.g. I recently helped a friend change pads & rotors on
his ML-320. This task is not too difficult and the parts (OEM, Mintex) for it
will cost < $400. However, the dealer will charge you between $1,500 and
$1,800 to perform this service, which they probably can complete in 1.5
hrs or less. What exactly are they thinking ?!?!? Who do they think
they are? Brain surgeons? Do I look like a complete imbecile? I'm sorry but that is way beyond
robbery.
Alternator Brush renewal
So your alternator quit running.
There's a pretty good chance that the brushes are worn out. Assuming
that this is the case, there are several courses of action:
1) You can simply waltz into the
dealer and let them fix the problem. They will replace the alternator
with a whole new unit (despite the fact that your perfectly good
alternator simply needs new brushes). They will then demand a ransom of
$650.
2) You can go to a generic shop and
get a rebuilt alternator for about $300.
3) You can buy, from the Benz dealer,
a new set of brushes, which they sell for $11. Then you can
easily replace the worn-out brushes and be back on the road. Note that
the dealer is not very forthcoming with this. They will not even suggest
that you swap the brushes, or even mention that they actually sell the
brushes. In fact, when confronted, they have the audacity to refuse
to simply change your worn-out brushes.
In the 190 the process is so simple that, if you have small and careful
hands, you could probably swap brushes without even taking the
alt off the car! Screw the dealer.
Sorry, no pix. Next time I swap them,
I'll take some.
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Brake Rotor Change
Coming soon...
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Brake System Flushing
There is a trick to flushing the brake
system that neither the Benz shop manual, nor the Hynes book tell you.
Not knowing this trick will lead to immediate frustration during this
process. So here: the reservoir (see picture below) is internally
divided into 2 chambers. A small rear chamber feeds the rear brakes
while the main (front) chamber is used for the front wheels. The catch
is that in order to get fluid into the rear chamber you have to fill the
main chamber to the very top. If you don't know this, most likely you
will introduce air into the rear brake system. Other than that, the
bleeding / flushing is perfectly cursory except for the fact that you
need a 9mm open end wrench (a crescent will almost certainly be too
thick) for the bleeding valve on the calipers. This is not a very common
size wrench.
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Getting ready for the job.
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I use this cleaner bottle and a piece of transparent hose at the caliper end.
Notice the dirty brake fluid visible in the hose. |
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Infamous reservoir...
I have shown the different levels with a red line. The chamber on the left (rear) feeds the rear wheels. |
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Cooling System Flushing
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Valve Clearance Adjustment
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